Anti-Aging

Skincare Matters


We promote a natural anti-aging solution,  the keys are how to moisturize your skin with powerful antioxidants against free radicals.

Everyone has their skincare routine, but it is essential to know what ingredients or chemicals have been built up on your face and skin.

I always prefer quality to quantity, and less is more. Sometimes the long list of an ingredient in skincare can be bad, especially if someone is allergic or sensitive to a particular ingredient. Hence, I would identify which active ingredients are valuable for anti-aging (such as Vitamin C, niacinamide..... etc), then apply them with the right concentrated amounts in my hand-crafted skincare for the optimal effectiveness of the ingredients.

The beauty industry is a huge market, there are thousands of skincare products available. Some incorporate it in a long list but the portion of antioxidants does not exist much, thus making your money wasted. Some marketing certain new ingredients but the effect can be achieved with alternatives at a lower price.  With my background in aromatherapy, cosmetic sciences, and aesthetics application, I hope the shared information here will help you find your way to an anti-aging solution, you will never again waste your money on over-priced or over-claimed products that might not be lifted to your expectation.

  • Dullness
  • Dry Skin
  • Dark Spots
  • Exfoliation
  • Sunscreen 
  • Antioxidants

why?

?!

Inspirational 

Dehydrated skin means an impaired stratum corneum. Stratum corneum (SC) is the protective outermost layer of skin that composed of about 15 to 20 layers of cells called corneocytes. The main function of SC is to form a barrier to protect underlying tissue from infecton, dehydration, chemicals and mechanical stress. Dehydrated skin is related to the water loss caused by environmental and lifestyle factors, e.g. climate, smoking and high sodium diets.

If you are suffering from dehydrated skin, please do not perform exfoliations as certain active ingredients like AHA, Vitamin C and retinol inside the skincare may over stimulate that and induce damage to the SC.

How to avoid skin dehydration:
Cleanser – Use an ultra-gentle and pH-balanced cleanser
Exfoliation – To remove dead skin cells 1-2 times a week
Use products with ceramides which made up to 50% of SC
No overwashing but moisturizing the skin
Maintaining skin at pH4.7 is healthy and ideal.

Signs of dehydrated skin:
Wrinkles
Loss of elasticity
Sagging skin

How to manage:
Protect skin from the sun and pollutants which will accelerate water loss, TEWL.
Boosting collagen
Reinforce proteins in the skin with moisture protection

Ingredients will help dehydrated skin:
Niacinamide (reduce dryness, dehydration, and TEWL)
Hyaluronic Acid (draw moisture to the skin and retain it)
Peptide (reinforce the protein like collagen, elastin and keratin)
Red LED (trigger repair mechanisms that stimulate fibroblast activity and new cell growth, boosting collagen)

Dry Skin:

Ingredients will help dry skin (lack of oil production)
Vitamin C (increases ceramide synthesis in the skin)
Linoleic Acid (an essential fatty acid for skin regeneration)
Magnesium and calcium (also help to prevent dry skin)

Keep the skin clean, healthy and hydrated. We need to clean our skin gently but thoroughly everyday.

Incorporate exfoliating agents (AHA, BHA) in our daily cleanser or toner will help to foster skin cell turnover for healthier and clearer skin.

As we age, dark spots, uneven skin texture and a loss of firmness become more prevalent. We need moisturizers or serums rich in antioxidants like Vitamin C in the morning, while Vitamin A at night, but not together at the same time.

Sunscreen is the mandatory layer at the day time, you have to apply it everyday no matter it is a sunny or cloudy day, indoor or outdoor. We cannot do anti-aging without sunscreen. If you don't have time or budget for the expensive antioxidants, you can miss all the steps but not sunscreen. It is essential for anti-aging.

When layering products, start with the lightest consistency (e.g. serum) and work up to the thickest (e.g. oils and creams). In other words, apply small molecule first then layer up with larger molecule skincare.

We need humectant, emollient and occlusive to counteract the dryness.
Moisturizer is to lock in hydration, prevent water loss from skin.
Emollient is to nourish and soften our skin.
Antioxidant is to fight free radical.
Exfoliation is to remove dead skin cells. (new skin generate in every 28 days)

An antioxidant is a powerful ingredient that protects the skin from free radicals. Antioxidants work by finding unstable or oxidizing molecules and neutralizing them.

Technically, an antioxidant is a molecule that stops the oxidation of other molecules. Oxidation is a chemical reaction that produces free radicals, leading to cell damage. Prolonged free radical skin cell damage can result in undesired premature aging, unwanted beauty effects, and eventually has the potential to cause disease. 

 Vitamin C is one of the great antioxidant choices for anti-aging. But the list doesn't stop, you can look for peptides, growth factors, glycosaminoglycans, stem cells, exfoliating agents, and many others.


Humectants pull water into the skin.
Humectant moisturizers are light and absorb quickly into the skin.

Soften skin by helping to smooth and repair any damage on the surface of the skin.
Emollients can help to restore the skin’s natural barrier to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
Emollients are also great for soothing eczema-prone skin.

Occlusives create a barrier over the skin to trap moisture.
They are best for severely dry or damaged skin. 

Anti-Aging

Top 10 Anti-Aging Ingredients

What are Ceramides in skincare?
Ceramides are lipids to fill up the gaps between skin cells. They are the essential and valuable components to keep a healthy skin barrier. Ceramides make up to 50% of our skin’s top layer, ceramides hold the skin together like cement and form a protective layer against skin aging, pollution and environmental damage. The ceramides level present in the upper skin (stratum corneum) decreases over age, and the barrier function will then be weakened. Our skin will become dull, dry and rough without a sufficient amount of this moisturizing agent.

As ceramides are skin-identical ingredients that naturally occur in the skin, so it is safe to use for all skin types and even the eyes. 

Benefits of Ceramides :
Amongst different types of ceramides, the below three are the most essential and valuable with outstanding effects.
• Ceramide 1: Prevent moisture loss. Restore skin barrier
• Ceramide 3: Improvement in skin hydration and firmness. Restores damaged skin. Protects the skin
• Ceramide 6II: Soothes irritated skin. Improves skin smoothness

Types of Ceramides
• Ceramide 1, also called ceramide EOS
• Ceramide 2, also called ceramide NS or NG
• Ceramide 3, also called ceramide NP
• Ceramide 6-II, also called ceramide AP
• Ceramide 9, also called ceramide EOP
• Phytosphingosine
• Sphingosine

Usage:
1.5 - 5% to the formulation
Ceramides work well with most of the other ingredients such as Vitamin A (retinol), Vitamin C, Glycerine, Peptides, Hyaluronic acid, Niacinamide (B3), AHA and BHA.
Ceramides and retinol complement each other. Ceramides are particularly effective when used in the evening after you apply your retinol.
Ceramides are particularly effective when used overnight to go along with skin’s natural restoration processes while you sleep.

Food Source:
Food rich in omega-3 and omega-6, like fatty fish and flaxseeds.
Eggs, wheatgerm, brown rice, spinach, sweet potatoes and soybeans 

The Relationship of Ceramides in Skin Diseases:
Psoriasis  - Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6
Ichthyosis - Ceramide 1, Ceramide 6
Acne (vulgaris) - Ceramide 1 through 6
Atopic dermatitis - Ceramide 1 through 6
Surfactant-induced dermatitis - Ceramide 3 

What is Coenzyme Q10 in skincare?
Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ-10) is a powerful anti-aging active ingredient in form of orange powder, it is an antioxidant with skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is oil-soluble and non-irritating, so it’s a great addition to oil serums.

Coenzyme Q10  is naturally present in every cell of our body, but decreases as we age. It has two essential functions:
• Energy: provides the cells with the energy which they need to function correctly, and survive. 
• Protection: CoQ10 is an antioxidant and helps cells cope with stress.

Using CoQ-10 in skin care is believed that it can protect skin cells from oxidative DNA damage induced by ultraviolet light. These anti-photo-aging effects help to reduce wrinkle depth.

Benefits of Coenzyme Q10: 
Against oxidative stress, fighting free radical
Reduce wrinkles and sun damage
Evens skin tone
Energizes skin cells
Support wound healing

In terms of health, CoQ10 shows improvement in heart health, Alzheimer’s disease, Parkinson’s disease and glaucoma.

Usage:
0.5 - 1% to the formulation

What is Retinol in skincare?
Vitamin A is a potent antioxidant that protects your skin from free radicals, generates cell growth, and repairs damaged cells. It is renowned for skin rejuvenation. Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that acts on DNA to promote healthy epidermal skin cells. Retinol belongs to a family called retinoids and is one of the only substances small enough to penetrate the outer epidermal layer to the layer where collagen and elastin reside.

There are so many different forms of Vitamin A available in skincare. Different derivatives of Vitamin A have different intensities on the skin. First-time users should start with the gentler version like Retinol.
• Retinol (available over the counter)
• Retinaldehyde
• Retinoic acid (By prescriptions: Tretinoin(AKA Retin-A), Renova, Refissa, Evage)
• Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), a retinoic acid ester

Retinol is one of the most gentle forms of Vitamin A that you can buy from over-the-counter. However, Retinol needs to be converted into Retinoic Acid to work. Your body can do this conversion, but it takes a longer time as it is the gentler version of Vitamin A. In contrast, Retinoids are already in Retinoic Acid form, so your body skips the conversion step but prescriptions by a professional is required.

These ingredients work by going deep into the collagen and assisting with "collagen remodeling," which helps tighten the skin. Not only that, but retinoids also increase cell turnover, which helps even out the skin. 

Benefits of Vitamin A:
Helps cell regeneration
Even out uneven skin tone
Reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Reduce oiliness (treat for acne and psoriasis)

Usage:
0.5 - 2% to the formulation
Vitamin A cannot mix with Vitamin C
It is better to apply Vitamin C in the morning and Vitamin A, retinol at night as retinol is more prone to skin sensitivity to the sun.
Never be used during pregnancy

Possible side effects:
• Irritated skin
• Redness
• Sun sensitivity
• Flaking or peeling skin
• Itchiness   

Contradiction:
Avoid all retinoids during pregnancy.

What is Vitamin C in skincare?

INCL: Ascorbic acid (there are 8 forms)

Vitamin C is a popular antioxidant-rich ingredient that indeed is a required component to produce collagen, which gives our skin its suppleness and elasticity.
Vitamin C has also been shown to help reduce the appearance of age spots while protecting against external environmental stressors such as UV and pollution.
It is widely formulated in anti-aging skin care products and especially incorporated into the morning routine as Vitamin C is not sun-sensitive. Vitamin C is an everyday nutrition boost for dehydrated aging skin and inflammation.

Benefits:
Protects cells from damaging free radicals
Brighten complexion, and clarity (Vitamin C inhibits the over-production of melanin, which produces pigmentation)
Even the skin tone.
Improves dark spots (Vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase, which converts the amino acid tyrosine into melanin—the pigment that gives your skin color.)
Smooth fine lines and wrinkles (Vitamin C helps synthesize collagen— a protein that gives your complexion a firmer, bouncier feel

Usage:
5 – 20%
Recommend slowly starting on the lower end and building up to a higher concentration to see what your skin can tolerate and prevent skin irritations. The higher concentration isn’t necessarily more beneficial to the skin, all depends on how your skin adapts to it.
Dry and/or sensitive skin starts with lower concentrations, around 5% which is less likely to be irritating.
Vitamin C has certain sun protection benefits but cannot replace sunscreen. Applying sunscreen after vitamin c will strengthen the sun protection effect.
Vitamin E and ferulic acid may help make vitamin C even more effective at protecting the skin against free radicals.
Do not combine Vitamin C with other skin-care acids such as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), as it will change Vitamin C’s pH and render it useless.
Avoid using vitamin C products with retinoids—vitamin A derivatives, they both promote cell turnover, and applying them at the same time may make both less effective. But using them on the same day at different times is fine.
Vitamin C becomes unstable when exposed to light and air, originally it is colorless and it becomes yellow or brown when it is oxidized. You can still use it but less effective.
To prevent oxidation, vitamin C products should be stored in opaque containers with an airless pump rather than a dropper bottle.

Types of synthetic vitamin C you may find on skin care product labels include:
• Ascorbic acid
• L-ascorbic acid
• Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
• Ascorbyl palmitate
• Ascorbic acid polypeptide
• Ascorbyl glucosamine
• Ascorbyl glucoside
• Ester-C
• Sodium ascorbyl palmitate
• Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 

The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5579659/

What is Vitamin E in skincare?
INCI: Tocopherol Tocopherol Acetate, Alpha-tocopherol

Natural Vitamin E is an oily and thick liquid that contains a mixture of tocopherols. It protects oils and other fatty ingredients from oxidation. It also acts as an antioxidant in the skin, where it protects skin cells from the damaging effects of oxidation molecules.

Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals and protects the skin from environmental factors. e.g. UV light, pollution, toxins, blue light. This antioxidant helps repair damage from the day and the moisturizing effects help rehydrate the skin overnight,

Vitamin E is oil soluble, it aids in the regulation and balance of the dermal system and improves the performance of skin cell membranes. As a result, a healthy skin barrier keeps the skin moisturized and better able to fight bacteria. This is fantastic for preserving youthful skin.

Benefits of Vitamin E:
Improve the skin’s barrier function and lock in moisture
Fight free radical, discourages oxidation
Delivering softer, more supple and healthier skin
Fewer wrinkles
Soothes inflammation and irritation

Usage:
2 – 30% to the formulation
Works well with hyaluronic acid and Vitamin C
Suitable for dry skin, UV-inflicted damage and pigmentation concerns e.g. melasma
Not for acne-prone and/or oily skin
Strengthen UV protection if used under sunscreen with Vitamin C
Wheat germ is rich in Vitamin E.


What is Hyaluronic acid in skincare?
INCI = Sodium Hyaluronate)
Hyaluronic Acid is not an acid, it won't exfoliate our skin. It is a water-binding ingredient that has the ability to fill the spaces between the connective fibers to support the body's collagen production and to help maintain elasticity.
Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in our own body, it is found in our joints and ligaments to keep our skin moist and our joints lubricated. It is not uncommon to inject hyaluronic acid into the skin for a plumping effect.

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, a molecule involved in skin moisture that has a unique capacity to bind and retain 1,000 times its weight in water.
Hyaluronic acid can be found in various molecular sizes and weights (4000 to 8,000,000 daltons), different molecular weights penetrate different levels of the skin with various merits.

High molecular weights Hyaluronic Acid has a larger molecular size which will form a light viscous gel in water, it creates a protective film on the skin's surface (epidermis), where it draws in moisture to boost hydration and rapidly enhance skin texture.
Low molecular weights Hyaluronic acids are smaller, therefore they can penetrate deep into the skin to deliver intense hydration and provide long-lasting visible results of plump, firm, and smooth skin.

Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid:
Fortifies the skin’s barrier to help lock moisture in
Stimulates Skin Cell Regeneration
Improves skin elasticity
Keep the skin hydrated for smoother and plumper skin
anti-wrinkle and reduce fine lines.
Anti-inflammatory and calming properties to soothe sensitive or irritated skin. 

Usage:
0.1 - 2% to the formulation
Combination of high and low Hyaluronic Acid for the optimal benefits of both fast-acting and intensive results.
Hyaluronic Acid mixes well with most moisturizing agents such as Retinol, glycolic acid and Vitamin C


What is Niacinamide in skincare?
Niacinamide is also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide.
It is a humectant with multi-benefits, niacinamide can boost collagen production to improve skin structure and anti-wrinkles. It helps to fade away brown spots as niacinamide is a skin-brightener to block an enzyme called tyrosinase (which plays an important role in melanin production). Studies also show that vitamin B3 can help to speed up epidermal cell growth (which slows down with age),

Benefits of Niacinamide :
Increases ceramide synthesis that results in a stronger, healthier skin barrier and better skin hydration
Lightening of hyperpigmentation (brown spots)
Enhance skin’s elasticity
Visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines and dullness.
Sebum regulating and anti-inflammatory properties enables to treat of acne, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis

Usage:
5 - 20% to the formulation
Don't Mix: Niacinamide combine well with most ingredient except vitamin C. Although they're both antioxidants, vitamin C is one ingredient that's not compatible with niacinamide.
Food Source: Meat, fish, milk, eggs, green vegetables, and cereals. 

What are Peptides in Skincare?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids and are the building blocks of proteins like collagen, elastin and keratin which are key to the texture and tone of the skin. In short, peptides lead you to youthful skin by rebuilding and maintaining your skin. Known to stimulate collagen synthesis and boost skin repair, thus minimizing wrinkles

There are hundreds of different peptides, all of which are made from different combinations of amino acids and that's why it can truly get confusing. Different types of peptides have different effects.

Benefits of Peptides:
Stimulate collagen synthesis
Boosting skin barrier repairing function
Enhance firmness and hydration
Smoothing wrinkles

What are AHA and BHA?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) - e.g. Glycolic Acid, Latic Acid, Mandelic Acid.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) - i.e. Salicylic Acid
AHA/BHA are exfoliating agents that create cell turnover without any scrubbing action. Exfoliation is a key step to keep the skin healthy and get rid of dead skin cell buildup.

About AHA:
AHA is gentler than BHA.
AHA is water soluble, mainly to remove dead skin cells making the skin surface smoother, AHA will not penetrate deep below the surface of the skin.
Benefits of AHA: 
Mild hyperpigmentation, tighten pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines and surface wrinkles.

About BHA:
BHA is oil soluble, it can penetrate beneath the skin’s surface, cleaning out excess sebum from the pores and reducing oiliness.
Benefits of BHA:
Acne
Reduce redness caused by Rosacea

Usage:
AHA : 10-15% maximum
BHA - Consult specialist

Overuse of AHA/BHA will cause dehydrated, tight, red, flaky and irritated skin. Be cautious if you have sensitive skin and use a high concentration of BHA,  consult with a specialist is strongly recommended.

All AHAs leave skin more sun sensitive. If you’re incorporating them into your routine, use them in the evening, and make sure you apply sunscreen in the morning to protect those fresh new cells against sun damage.



UV rays are responsible for up to 90% of premature aging

Photoaging is a process of aging of the skin attributed to continuous, long-term exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation.
Collagen is found in the lower part of the dermis and its main function is to give elasticity and hold the skin together. Under the influence of the sun the collagen network breakdown which leads to wrinkle formation and sagging skin. Not only that, but UV also causes increased hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.

Both UVA and UVB will damage the DNA in the skin cells and even lead to skin cancer. Only UVC cannot reach the earth. It’s important to look for the words “broad spectrum” on a product’s label, which means it has ingredients that can protect you from UVA as well as UVB rays.

SPF15 - Blocked 93.3%UV
SPF30 - Blocked 96.7% UV
SPF60 - Blocked 98.3%UV
Higher SPF sunscreens only increase protection by 3%
Generally, it is recommended to apply SPF30.

How much sunscreen to put on?
Face - 3ml
Arm - 3ml each
Limb - 3ml each
Body - 6ml (Front) 6ml (Back)
Whole body - 35g
Recommends reapplying every 2 hours whenever you are outdoors.

Main Ingredients:
Mineral Sunscreen: Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide (maximum 25%)
Chemical Sunscreen: Eusolex HMS, OMC, Parsol
The risk is increased sensitivity to a larger amount of chemical ingredients if using a chemical sunscreen. 

SPF =  Sun Protection Factor
SPF is a parameter that indicates how long you can stay in the sun without burning from UVB light.

SPF Equation:
Take the time you would normally burn in the sun without protection, 20 minutes will normally produce redness on a light-skinned individual.
If your skin would normally burns after 10 minutes in the sun, applying an SPF 15 sunscreen would allow you to stay in the sun without burning for approximately 150 minutes (a factor of 15 times longer).

More Sun Protection knowledge and FAQ. ---->  Go to Sunscreen Essential Page

Ingredients
Should Not Mix Together

Vitamin AVitamin CNiacinamide (B3)AHA/BHA
Vitamin A-XOX
Vitamin CX-XX
Niacinamide (B3)OX-O
AHA/BHAXXO-

These are potent antioxidants with different functions. Some will increase sun sensitivity,   some will cancel out the valuable properties to each other if mixed together.
But they are still fine to use them at different times of the day as long as you are not layering up the ingredients to each other in one go and no redness and irritating effect arises.

Ingredients
Not Play Well Together

VITAMIN C + AHAS/BHAS

Because vitamin C is effectively an acid, layering it with AHAs and BHAs such as glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids is a big no-no.
Vitamin C is extremely unstable, so any acids you layer it with will disrupt the pH balance and render it completely ineffective before it even has a chance to work its magic.

RETINOL + AHAS/BHAS

Retinol does not exfoliate like AHAs and BHAs, but it is a peeling agent that stimulates cell turnover to remove old and damaged skin cells. Mixing it with acids can cause dryness and irritation, and it may damage the moisture barrier of the skin.

RETINOL +VITAMIN C

Combining retinol and vitamin C will increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun, putting you at a higher risk of burning and UV damage. It may trigger irritation, peeling, and redness. It is best to use retinol at night and vitamin C during the daytime.

NIACINAMIDE + VITAMIN C

Both compounds work well when used independently to treat damaged and blemish-prone skin, but mixing them can be disastrous.
Niacinamide makes ineffective all of vitamin C's beneficial properties, transforming it into a substance that causes redness and can trigger acne breakouts. 

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